Japanese knives are well known across the world for being the best. Their superior quality in design, materials and manufacturing has gained them this reputation from years of tradition and an unparalleled dedication to excellence. Japanese knife production is a unique example of great design across virtually an entire industry because of a business culture and skill level unmatched anywhere else is the world. But how did Japanese knives become the top tier of production and why is this relevant to product design in the world today? A recent trip to Japan opened my eyes to the details and history of cooking knives and, being an enthusiastic cook studying product design engineering, sparked an ongoing obsession for all things Japanese steel.
Japanese knife production stems from the ancient culture of Samurai warriors and their swords. These warriors were highly trained and it was seen as an honourable position; one that goes above the value of life. Their military swords were an extension of the body and were created and maintained to the highest standard. This changed in 1868 when carrying a sword was banned in public life across Japan as trade with Western countries increased and the Government wanted to bring Japan into a modern age of industry. Whilst swords were retained for ornamental and artistic means, many skilled blacksmiths moved into knife production. Now, knives are made all across Japan but Sakai is seen as the epicentre of steel cutlery. Production there started before swords were banned when tobacco was introduced to Japan in the 16th century and tobacco knives were sold with the Sakai seal of approval of quality. This seal was granted by the Shogun and encouraged production everywhere. This level of quality is maintained as many knives are still made by small companies and family businesses today.
The artistry and dedication of Samurai swords continued into knives. The shape of the blade changed significantly from swords into a range of designs each for a specific kitchen task. This diverse range is continually driven by the desire to complete any given job properly and to maintain personal pride in Japanese culture. This is in stark comparison to Western cooking knives in Germany and France where the curved and pointed “Chef’s Knife” is a fairly monotonous style. It comes in different sizes with variations for filleting, peeling and butchery with the combination of a small paring knife. Whereas in Japan, the variety of knife types seems never ending. Every detail in blade size, shape, thickness, bevel, weight and handle type, have been carefully refined for the best possible product for that task. Anything from eels to soba has a specific type of knife which must be used to properly cut. For instance, the family of Deba knives are used for filleting fish; it has a thickened top section for more weight to make it easier to cut through fish rib bones and spines. It usually features a thin, single bevelled edge which means that only one side is sharpened for a cleaner slice. This is trademark Japanese knife design, single bevelled edges are more technical to use and were mostly foreign to European kitchens until the global status of Japanese knives.
Thin blades and wooden handles keep the knives much lighter than thicker European counterparts to not tire chefs from chopping all day. In Europe, we interrupt weight as a sign of quality. However, for most chopping scenarios there’s no need for excessive weight. A more general-purpose knife such as a Santoku blade can be directly compared to a European chef knife. It has a straighter blade and is not designed to rock backwards and forwards like the curved European style. I find this technique maintains a lower shoulder position and less space is needed for chopping. Sometimes Japanese blades are fluted, hammered or concaved to maintain air pockets between the steel and wet foods so that the food comes away easily and isn’t held to the blade by the surface tension of water. Small design details such as these elevate these products to a higher level.
Whilst on a recent trip to Japan I decided a Japanese knife would be the perfect souvenir. Tokyo is divided into districts and the place for knives is Kappabashi- the kitchenware district. This Highstreet sells, obviously, exclusively restaurant supplies including ceramics, chopsticks and pristine plastic models of food- a must have for the front window of many Japanese restaurants. But that’s for another day. Kamata is one knife shop where, after much browsing, I chose to purchase a knife. The family business is almost a hundred years old and has an enormous range on display. After hearing all about the different styles it’s impossible not be impressed by their knowledge and passion for delivering real quality. The finishing of every knife is laboured over by hand; the cutting edge is polished and razor sharp, and the other angular edges are smoothed and satisfying. After much deliberation I chose a hammer finished traditional Nakiri which is a vegetable knife. The elongated height protects knuckles from the cutting edge and there is no point at the end as there is no need for one. This one was Damascus steel which gives it the rippled grain structure. This is not just an aesthetic appeal but produces a harder and more shatter resistant blade. The blade uses a more modern 70/30 bevel ratio rather than a purest single bevel. This means that for a right-handed user, the right side of the knife’s edge is sharpened more to give it a sharper angle to hold the cutting edge. This is a classic example of how the two styles of European and Japanese knives have been combined to improve a traditional model. However, the handle was the traditional long, lightweight cylindrical wooden style which is popular in Japan. In the shop the knife was engraved with my name which was a nice, personal touch which seemed standard practice in Kappabashi knife shops to be included in the price of the knife.
Having now used my Nakiri for sometime I can say that I am really satisfied with it and it lived up to expectation. After generation of refinement and centuries of manufacturing the end result is a knife that is easy to use, has a really pleasing feel in the hand and holds an edge really, really well. It’s no surprise that now using cheaper knives only points out glaring design their glaring design flaws and oversights in an effort to churn out and sell as much as possible. But not all new, mass manufactured knives are leaving high standards behind. What’s interesting to examine now is what’s happening to knife design now. We live in a world where expertise can be cherry picked and fusions of culture exist everywhere. GLOBAL is one example of this in the knife world. It was established in 1985 and produces Japanese steel knives in a range of designs. You can see clear cross breading between both European and Japanese styles. They sell knives with easier to use double bevelled edges, hollow metal handles and seamless, stainless steel bodies to give a unique and modern aesthetic. This is clearly drawing on the lightness and nimble feeling of blades from Japanese design but ditching their old fashioned wooden handles. Less wood makes them easier to clean and maintain over a long lifespan. The double bevel uses a sharp angle, rather than a shallower one which more common in Europe, to hold a sharp edge longer. Modern manufacturing allows for new features like these dimpled, hollow stainless steel handles. High quality finishing in maintained and the seamless body feels great to hold- it is a real triumph of modern mass manufacturing. They’ve used famous chefs such as Michel Roux Jr. (two-star Michelin chef) to endorse their knives and connect them to relevant professional standards around the world.
Hybrid knives are in dangerous territory of abusing the reputation of Japanese steel and losing sight of what makes the originals great. But, when produced with the same attention to detail as the Samurai’s blacksmiths in centuries of old; chefs from all over the world can access the best knives available. For modern food to break culinary rules and cross continent lines, chefs need modern tools for modern dishes. But, once everything is foamed, sous-vided and freeze dried to within an inch of its life, at the end of the day every home cook and chef just needs the right knife for the right job. And that, is the Japanese approach to knife design.
